It never looks as dramatic in the pictures as it does when you’re out there swimming. And in real terms it wasn’t… the biggest waves we encountered were maybe – maybe – six feet crest to trough. But when you take a glance in front and see nothing but a wall of water, or even worse when a poorly timed breath finds you unexpectedly submerged for a second, it’s a bit full on! It does feel like you’re in the wash cycle, especially close to shore where the breakers break.
The swim group is now in its full winter routine… only about 45 minutes in the water followed by a hot shower at the surf club and a latte across the road. During coffee time we work on our story in case we run across anybody who hasn’t heard it all before. Did somebody get blown a little ways off course, or have their goggles pushed askew? That’ll do just fine.
Aw, shucks, I can say to anyone within social distance, just a morning dip… but it was blowing a gale, I tell you what. Nah, the 55-degree water’s not that cold once you toughen up a bit. I was fine but this other guy got in between two waves and…
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