Whitianga Ferry

It’s only about a 3-minute ride, and this trusty boat does it continuously for at least 12 hours a day.

As a result of all that practice, the skippers know all the tricks to get from here to there, taking the strong estuary currents, winds, and passengers into account. After using the absolute minimum required fuel to get across, they mostly don’t even get up from their seat to grab the mooring line and swing into the dock… it’s always a pleasure to see someone make it look easy.

Cathedral Cove Tour

On Sunday we took a glass bottom boat tour from our base in Whitianga out to Cathedral Cove and Hahei. Great time!

Like many celebrities, the cove looks shorter in person.

Here’s the well-trained school of red snapper in the marine reserve, who are acting as the primary differentiator between us and the sad non-glass-bottom people.

New Zealand’s second largest sea cave.

I really enjoyed our snorkeling stop, even though visibility wasn’t great. I was a little surprised to see this bald guy in the pictures since I didn’t notice him in the water and there were no other boats around.

Our guide jumped in and came up with this awesome crayfish.

Overall, a highly recommended trip!

The Coromandel

Our second road trip with the Provs was out to the Coromandel Peninsula. It’s not all that far from Auckland… four hours or so gets you absolutely anywhere and two gets you a lot of the more settled parts.

There are some specific sites to be seen, breaks to be surfed, venues to be discovered, but mostly it’s this… beautiful countryside stretching to the ocean.

Beachcombing Coromandel

En route to our Coromandel hotel we stopped on a stretch of beach reputed for some semi-precious stones that wash up. We did find some pretty pebbles (jasper? agate?) and bits of seaglass.

But the most memorable thing we found was also kinda sad… a dead hammerhead shark washed up on shore.

Why-heke

Waiheke Island sits just a few miles off the coast, but for complicated microclimate and zoning reasons has turned into a significant wine production and tourism destination. You take a 40-minute ferry ride, then bike or bus or scooter around from beach to winery to shoppe all day and come back in the evening. Or, you rent a house and do the same thing for longer.

I can see the appeal… it’s beautiful. But we went on New Year’s Weekend, one of the absolute busiest days of the year. It was hot, and crowded, and it turns out wineries and shoppes on Waiheke (none of which are more than 20 or 30 years old) look an awful lot like their counterparts in other places.

Next time we go, it will be for the company we are in, or for a longer stay at a non-peak time.

Wellington wrap up

A few final photos and thoughts from last week’s trip to Wellington….

This statue is decorated with words from the writings of Wellington beloved author Katherine Mansfield.

Smaug and me having a moment in the Wellington airport.

A whole lotta architecture going on.

Interislander to Picton

“Placid coastline from a boat” (or “boats bobbing in still harbor”) must be the title of most of the world’s least interesting photos. But in this case, the picture doesn’t replace the 1,000 words. The last time I took this trip, just over a year ago, I was jetlagged. The seas were rough beneath the wind and rain. There was a tight timetable. Exciting day, but sort of weird and disconnected.

So this time, the very placidness was a delicious change. The water was all shades of blue and green, the clouds obligingly fluffy. The boat, a different one than last year, was unexpectedly nice.

We planned to spend about six hours in Picton, and honestly knew that might be too much, but the ferry schedule offered too little or too much, so there you are.

First stop, the Edwin Fox museum. Despite the overlong video about the ship’s history and associated preservation (not restoration!) efforts, that was a 45-minute visit. Interesting and all, but hard to get truly immersed without the company of an expert boatbuilder. Or maybe a group of school kids.

Then across the lovely foreshore park into town for lunch.

Then shopping up and down both blocks of Picton’s CBD. I did get a paperback John Carter of Mars, notable in that the British cover art actually shows the Princess’s lovely breasts, whereas the US editions from that time period always cover her up with ornate bikinis. The other most interesting thing about the shopping district was the community noticeboard outside the grocery store. I’ve never seen so many clubs advertised in one place: bridge, cribbage, lawn bowling, watercolor, poetry, book and cinema lovers, and even a community accordion ensemble. It’s as if every retiree must start a hobby club as a condition of residence.

We had a beer to recover from all the excitement and planned our next move. The aquarium, obviously.

We’ve been to some world class aquatic exhibits… Chicago, Monaco, Monterey… If I were on the Picton Chamber of Commerce I would be excitedly pitching the extraordinary amount of as-yet-unrealized aquarium-attraction opportunity in front of this plucky seaside community… there’s literally nowhere to go but up! Nowhere.

Next we wandered over to the pleasure port and had the same conversation we always have in that situation.

A) look at all the yachts for sale. Some of them we could even afford if we really wanted to.

B) but what a lot of work and expense even after you pay for it. Let’s rent or charter one sometime instead.

C) agreed. But if we did buy one, which ones do we like? That one, that one, not that one, ooh, look!

D) who owns all these boats anyway? It’s such a shame they all just seem to sit here, seldom if ever used.

Then it was back to the foreshore for some rock-skipping and birdwatching, and back on the boat. We booked into the Premium Lounge on the way back, so dinner and an open bar, well worth it. We got into a brief discussion with some drunken fellow passengers, including a couple Kiwis who were loudly defending their opinion that Canadians are way better than Americans. Not really an argument we want to have, but we did end up agreeing that Vermont is basically Canada, so it’s all good.

Farewell, Picton, until we meet again. You seem like a great jumping off point for South Island adventures, probably a nice place to retire or live in the marina on a boat with a scruffy little dog and a bottle of Jim Beam. We wish you a nice quiet summer, but we hope all the tourists visit your attractions.

Parliament

We took the hourlong tour of the NZ Parliament complex just after our walk through the garden. No photos allowed inside, so sadly we didn’t get to record our young tour guide. Her nametag said Cora, or maybe Carla, but that didn’t matter… it was obvious that her real name was Hermione.

The complex has three very distinct buildings… the modern Beehive (mostly offices, some like it, some don’t, according to Hermione/Cora), and the Edwardian neo-classical section with the actual legislative chamber, both above. Below, the Victorian Gothic Revival library building.

We intended to go sit in and listen to debate, but the gallery was full, owing to the agenda being taken up of valedictory speeches and MP’s friends and family occupying all the seats. It’s somehow awesome that Parliament here has the same feeling as a high school basketball game when the underdog team unexpectedly makes it to the state championships.

Wellington Botanic Garden

We spent a nice hour at the Wellington Botanic Garden on our little mini-vacay. The easiest way to see the garden is to ride the cable car up to the top and stroll down.

The Carter Observatory is on the same grounds, but was closed that day. Sad.

The Japanese maple showed a certain frizziness that Lee is all too familiar with in this humid climate.

This bench commemorates the life and works of a former head gardener whose name – if one believes what one reads on commemorative benches – was Mr. Moss.

This tui bird gave us quite a show, but I didn’t get a good shot of his distinctive white throat plumage.

Baby ducks.

Some of the themed gardens, like the roses and camellias, weren’t blooming much, but overall it was a beautiful spot on a lovely day.

Kix

Wellington lives on government and related activities. There’s a big part of me that sympathises with the desk-bound civil servants yearning for a little self-expression who, I hope, buy and then actually wear these bad boys and bad girls.

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