Wellington first look

I landed yesterday about three in the afternoon local time. It depends exactly when you start counting, but the trip took somewhere in the neighborhood of 36 hours, which I think is a record for me for continuous airport time.

One of the first things you have to think about, in a new city on the other side of the world, is your sleep cycle. Since three in the afternoon is not the right time to go to bed, I took a long hot shower and went out for an initial walk around.

Many shops were closed, it turned out to be a holiday. As a result, downtown Wellington was almost eerily deserted. It was a nice temperature, the very definition of “sweater weather,” and the skies were overcast. 

I felt jangly and buzzy inside, post-airplane, and I know that colored my first impressions of the city. Those impressions for the most part centered around “nice” and “unremarkable.” This morning, after an unexpectedly good night’s sleep, the unremarkable part is fading, and the nice part is amplifying itself.

The oldest buildings date back into the 1800s, but this is very much a 20th century city… Good and bad. This is part of the Parliament complex, which looked worth a visit. 


I saw some good public art, and hopefully I will get more pictures as the week goes on. Here’s one…


There’s a very nice war Memorial with especially interesting cat-like lions, but I didn’t find an angle that avoided the unremarkable office tower right behind it. It was easy enough to filter out the office building with my eyes, but not so easy with the camera.

I walked up and down “funky” Cuba Street, just near the hotel, but, maybe because of the holiday, I thought they really needed to turn up da funk quite a bit. I walked along the waterfront, which is a pretty standard mix of half-empty and half-filled with overpriced but good restaurants and touristy shops in giant redeveloped blocks. I did get to climb some steep hills, many via outdoor staircase, and found myself on the campus of some university or other. I think as I spend more time here that I will realize/remember how actually remarkable that combination of hills and water really is.

I was hungry, but had an unusually hard time figuring out what I wanted to eat, and I caught myself walking around the same few blocks several times not deciding. I ended up in a place called Mexico, where I had a good, if conspicuously vegan, roasted pumpkin quesadilla and a bottle of Pacifico, which is my favorite among all of the utterly indistinguishable Mexican beers.

The Sea Lion

Boats often lead lead long and interesting lives, and boat people often seem to be people who enjoy chronicling those lives in detail. Here’s the Sea Lion… not much to look at cosmetically, but she caught my eye, and made me wonder where she’d been before. Assuming, of course, that I have the right boat, here’s the answer.

A three-minute tour

My original itinerary had me on the ground in Sydney for about 12 hours, and so I had thought to take a harbor tour or gray line bus tour or something, just to say I had been there.

The new itinerary, however, didn’t give me that luxury. So, I was especially happy that our flight path included a complicated figure eight over the city, with good narration from the purser.

Donald McKay

I’m supposed to be in an airplane this morning about to land in Australia. However, some malfunction or other allowed me the privilege of staying in Boston overnight and trying to get out today. So, I went for a nice walk in the morning drizzle. I would post overhead video footage of the entire experience, but it isn’t allowed…


It wasn’t a total loss, however since I got to see this wonderful bust of Donald McKay in the park. He looks about like I felt yesterday dealing with Delta.

Mr. McKay’s clipper ships, such as the Flying Cloud and the Sovereign of the Seas, were among the fastest vessels of the time, carrying everything from slaves to timber to 49ers on their way to California. 

Today, this part of Boston Harbor is mostly abandoned, or more accurately it has been abandoned and is now in the early throes of gentrification… Instead of longshoremen smoking furtive nasty cigarettes, it’s twenty-somethings with weimaraners and lattes.

Peak Foliage

Early in the year, I heard some predictions that the drought-like conditions we have experienced would cause a lousy leaf season.

Instead, it has been spectacular. Over the past couple of weeks I’ve been daily wondering whether we had hit the peak… it’s a tradeoff between having the most leave is still on the trees, versus having the most leaves at their most dramatic colors. Often, a storm will come along and knock some leaves down early, so if you are waiting and waiting for the most color, you might miss it.


On Thursday, we snuck out for a nice lunch at the Four Columns Inn in Newfane. The Newfane Square is about as picturesque as you can convenient we get, and the colors were amazingly vibrant under the perfect blue sky.

Henrietta Frankenstein 

For obvious reasons, Henrietta is a well-known figure in the Retreat Cemetery, which has been newly spruced up thanks to a recent grant. 

I had to go look up what the “Æ” means in this context: it’s an abbreviation for anno aetatis suae, which in this context means that she died in the 67th year of her life.

Mise en place, again

Getting ready for the fabulous Vietnamese feast prepared by Sheri for my birthday. After our hike, we had a “towering” appetite. Best of all, a large number of the extended Houghton / Providence clan joined in… 

Thanks a ton!

Tower Power

On Sunday, Sherri recruited someone who really knows their way around the Retreat Trails to lead us a short hike. The tower is always locked, but we ended up finding a view that let us imagine what must be like if you could get in there and go up the spiral staircase up to the roof. 

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