Levers and Switches

You certainly don’t escape the upcoming US election by traveling halfway around the world… It’s a daily topic on the news here, and every local person we talk to asks us about it. All we can do is shrug our shoulders self-deprecatingly… What’s to say?

Seeing this seemingly prosperous, harmonious little island function does make you think about the right and the wrong way to govern. Mostly people can get a lot of things done without the government being involved, but for all the rest, there are as many choices about how we should govern ourselves as there are things that need to be governed.

My first experience of doing things differently here came at my very first meal, on New Zealand Labour Day. When I went in the restaurant, I was told there was a 15% surcharge in effect. OK, I said, too tired to really care one way or the other. It turns out there is mandated overtime pay on state holidays, but restaurant owners are allowed to recoup the extra costs with a surcharge. Some people decide that it’s just not worth it to open up on holidays and so they don’t.

Is that a good policy, or not? Employees get extra pay for working an unusual shift, a common practice in hospitals back home, but not necessarily in restaurants. If some businesses stay closed, does that mean more people spend more time with the family, improving national cohesiveness? Is economic growth helped or hindered by this policy? Who can say? It’s how things work here. They’ve turned a certain set of switches and dials to achieve a certain set of ends.

On our tour of Parliament, we learned about how people vote here: you get two votes, one for the party, and one for your favorite candidate. There is proportional representation in the legislature, meaning it is possible for an unpopular party to seat a popular candidate… and vice versa. Seems to work well for the Green Party, who never win any districts out right, but consistently poll at between 10 and 15%, so they get a few seats.

Wellington Cable Car

Rode the cable car yesterday afternoon, got photobombed…


The car itself is cute, certainly makes getting to the top of the hill easier. 


There’s a nice little museum and gift shop at the top, as well as access to the Carter Observatory (already closed) and the Botanic Garden. 

Meat raffle 

Had to look this one up, and I definitely didn’t expect what I found out…

It turns out this is a raffle where the prize is… wait for it… some meat!

Street Art

There’s a lot of good street art here in Wellington. Between the Māori influence with all their wild graphics and all the folks involved with Lord of the Rings, Avatar, etc., it makes for a big talent pool. 

Wellington Job Interview 


So, you’re hiring, right?

— Yeah, mate, that’s right. You’ve got your Architect Licence, yeah?

— Yeah, that’s right.

— And you’ve got a scooter?

— ‘Course.

— What color is it, then, your scooter?

— Orange, mate.

— All right, I reckon that’s all sorted, then. See you Monday.

— Right, then, cheerio!

Beer

It would be wrong not to acknowledge the rich variety of beer available here… I’ve had some really good ones. 

Yesterday I stopped in at the Fork and Brewer, where they have 27, yes 27 of their own beers on tap. Later, somewhere else, I had a Behemoth triple chocolate hazelnut milk stout that was really just better than most desserts.

Victoria victory 

When I checked into the hotel, I overheard the desk clerk telling somebody else about the nice hike up Mount Victoria. She said it might take a couple of hours. The next day I heard one of the people at my conference say that he had hiked up, and it didn’t sound quite so hard. So, the next morning, the first morning that didn’t have rain, I headed out. 


It turned out to be more like half an hour to the top, more hill than mountain.  Super nice trail, big pine trees and eucalyptus trees, and (why not?) A monument to Admiral Byrd on top.

Hiking around town

Apparently, the population of Wellington is around 200,000 people, and indeed it is quite thickly settled. However, even smack in the middle of downtown I’m just a few blocks from beautiful forests. There seems to be an extensive and well-marked network of trails. And, although I do see a lot of people out walking and jogging and so on, the trails have been basically empty.

Wellington cars

Except that they drive on the wrong side, cars in Wellington look like a slightly scaled down version of cars at home. Not as crazy small as European cars look to me, but sensibly smaller than what I see around town in Vermont. I did see a Figaro, but wasn’t quick enough to get a shot. Here’s a couple of standouts…

This Cobra spent the night outside my hotel, and I appreciated the honesty of its vanity plate.

Another look at the Beehive

The old and new parts of the New Zealand Parliament, were we had a nice tour the other evening.


Here’s me and Carol. She was smart enough to take off her name badge before the picture was taken. 

Trump Trump

Powershop is in electric company down here in New Zealand, and they want you to switch from whoever your electric company is now to them. They have blanketed the town with this Trump Trump campaign and it is absolutely wonderful.

Wellington first look

I landed yesterday about three in the afternoon local time. It depends exactly when you start counting, but the trip took somewhere in the neighborhood of 36 hours, which I think is a record for me for continuous airport time.

One of the first things you have to think about, in a new city on the other side of the world, is your sleep cycle. Since three in the afternoon is not the right time to go to bed, I took a long hot shower and went out for an initial walk around.

Many shops were closed, it turned out to be a holiday. As a result, downtown Wellington was almost eerily deserted. It was a nice temperature, the very definition of “sweater weather,” and the skies were overcast. 

I felt jangly and buzzy inside, post-airplane, and I know that colored my first impressions of the city. Those impressions for the most part centered around “nice” and “unremarkable.” This morning, after an unexpectedly good night’s sleep, the unremarkable part is fading, and the nice part is amplifying itself.

The oldest buildings date back into the 1800s, but this is very much a 20th century city… Good and bad. This is part of the Parliament complex, which looked worth a visit. 


I saw some good public art, and hopefully I will get more pictures as the week goes on. Here’s one…


There’s a very nice war Memorial with especially interesting cat-like lions, but I didn’t find an angle that avoided the unremarkable office tower right behind it. It was easy enough to filter out the office building with my eyes, but not so easy with the camera.

I walked up and down “funky” Cuba Street, just near the hotel, but, maybe because of the holiday, I thought they really needed to turn up da funk quite a bit. I walked along the waterfront, which is a pretty standard mix of half-empty and half-filled with overpriced but good restaurants and touristy shops in giant redeveloped blocks. I did get to climb some steep hills, many via outdoor staircase, and found myself on the campus of some university or other. I think as I spend more time here that I will realize/remember how actually remarkable that combination of hills and water really is.

I was hungry, but had an unusually hard time figuring out what I wanted to eat, and I caught myself walking around the same few blocks several times not deciding. I ended up in a place called Mexico, where I had a good, if conspicuously vegan, roasted pumpkin quesadilla and a bottle of Pacifico, which is my favorite among all of the utterly indistinguishable Mexican beers.

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